For most people, exercising a dog consists of a trip to the park for a run around. In some cases this might suffice, but responsible owners should be aware of the quantity and quality of exercise that their dog needs to maintain optimum health. Ask yourself the following questions.
1) How often does your dog get exercised?
It does not take a genius to work out that you put on weight if you do not burn off the calories that you ingest. Exercise is extremely important to the health and well being of your dog. Fit dogs are happier, more active, more mobile and less susceptible to health problems such as arthritis, ligament ruptures and heart disease. With such huge individual variation between breeds and ages, we cannot recommend a set amount of exercise that each dog should have, but all dogs require at least one walk a day, with the more athletic ones requiring two.
2) What type of exercise does your dog do?
Whilst a walk or two a day may be perfectly adequate exercise for your dog, there is huge benefit to be had from mixing it up a bit and trying out new activities. Adding variety to a dogs exercise routine provides extra physical and mental challenges that can be both interesting and rewarding for both dog and owner. If your dog has any medical conditions (e.g. heart problem, arthritis) you must consult a veterinary professional before adding any unfamiliar exercises. Here we look at various types of exercise possible.
- Walking & Hiking
The most common form of exercise for dogs. Always have your dog on a lead unless you are in a park or rural area without traffic. Beware the potential existence of other dogs in public places that may be irresponsibly raised and show aggression to your pooch.
- Jogging
Getting your dog to run alongside you and adjust to fluctuations in your speed will require a little training, but if you are a keen jogger it is a great way of exercising your dog. Make sure you choose a pace that is comfortable for your dog, and only attempt jogging if you and your dog are able to walk briskly for 30 minutes without tiring.
- Cycling
This is fantastic if you have access to the countryside where your dog can run safely off the lead. Also great for athletic dogs that need to run greater distances than you do to achieve a proper workout. If you wish to cycle with your dog in urban areas, he or she must have impeccable lead manners and ideally respond to commands such as left and right. Cycling early in the morning when there is less traffic is wise, and avoid busy roads.
- Inline skating
Skating, like cycling, means athletic dogs often get the chance to run to their hearts content. However, since you cannot go on grass and are concrete bound, it is only really suitable with a dog in a park, where you do not have the worry of traffic. Your dog should be taught commands such as slow and stop, and only let off the lead if he or she is ultra obedient. Using a harness rather than a lead affords greater control in this exercise.
- Jump & fetch
Getting your dog to jump and fetch a ball can provide hours of entertainment and is excellent exercise. Make sure the ball is not small enough to be accidentally swallowed. Also synthetic toys such as balls are far safer than sticks, which can fragment in the dogs mouth and get stuck in their throat.
- Frisbee
Playing frisbee is great fun for some dogs, but you need to have a large garden or a park nearby where your dog can run freely off the lead. This is great for the lazy person as you are pretty much stationary while your dog has a full workout. Clearly not all dogs are willing or able to catch the frisbee, so only those breeds that pick up the knack are suitable. Playing frisbee should be avoided in dogs with teeth or mouth problems, and also in dogs with joint problems and those susceptible to cruciate ligament damage.
- Circuit & agility
Those familiar with obedience competitions will be well aware of the fun and satisfaction to be had doing this activity. You and your dog run around a series of obstacles, aiming to pass through each without a problem. Courses often consist of bar jumps (hurdles of varying heights according to the breed), a tunnel (usually about 3 feet long), a ramp and a slalom (5 or more bars in a row). The key when starting out is to reward your dog enthusiastically for doing each obstacle with treats. You should lead him through the obstacle course, teaching him to respond to instructions such as Up!, and body language, for example the outstretched palm of your hand meaning Stop!
- Swimming
Swimming is one of the best exercises there is for both you and your dog, as you are using every muscle in the body. If you are lucky enough to have somewhere where you and your dog are both permitted to swim, and is also safe, then this is a highly beneficial activity. If you are swimming in the sea, make sure a lifeguard is around just in case, and be aware that cold water and current both increase the effort required as more calories are burned. Swimming is particularly beneficial for dogs with arthritis and other joint problems as it builds muscular strength without placing strain on the joints.
- Football
Start the game by kicking the ball slowly along the ground towards your dog, and encourage him to get it. Because the ball is too large to pick up in his or her mouth, it will take him or her some time to realize that it must be pushed with either the nose or the paws. Give praise and encouragement as he or she gets the hang of it. Small breeds can be offered a smaller rubber ball rather than a football. Make sure the ball is not small enough to be swallowed though.
Author Bio: Matthew Homfray is one of the online vets at free pet Q&A service Televets. Visit http://www.televets.com to ask your pet question today!
Tuesday, January 8, 2008
Monday, January 7, 2008
A Healthy Diet for Dogs
Every owner these days seems to have their own ideas on what constitutes a healthy balanced diet for their dog. How many of them are reliably imformed though? The following questions are designed to critically assess your dogs diet. Please read them, for your dogs sake.
1) How many times a day do you feed your dog?
There is no set rule for adult dogs but the general consensus is that twice a day is a sensible amount. Some owners feed once a day, some three times a day. How much your dog is fed is far more important than how often really, but it is useful to set guidelines nevertheless. The reason many experts suggest twice a day rather than once a day is that once a day feeding encourages the dog to gorge his or her food as he or she is so hungry, having last had a meal a full 24 hours ago. Eating too quickly can cause reflex regurgitation or vomiting. Also it has been theorized that deep chested large breed dogs are more likely to suffer from a twisted stomach (gastric dilatation and volvulus), a life threatening condition, if they are fed one large meal daily rather than two smaller meals.
Clearly more active dogs will burn far more calories than others but these variables are best reflected in portion size rather than frequency. Some dogs with medical conditions may benefit from multiple meals of smaller portions, for example those recovering from gastroenteritis. Puppies must be fed more often than adult dogs as they have a higher metabolic rate, around 4 times a day from weaning to around 5 months old, then drop down to 3 times a day until 7 months old, then down to twice a day thereafter.
2) Is your dogs diet manufactured specifically for dogs or do you give human food or food from the butchers?
There is a misconception around that human food is higher quality than dog food, and therefore better for them. This is by and large nonsense. Reputable dog foods are formulated after extensive trials by pet food companies to provide the mixture of protein, carbohydrate and fat that suits canine physiology best. Dogs on balanced dog food diets do not get nutritional deficiencies but dogs on human food do. Certain human titbits can play havoc with your dogs digestive tract, chocolate being a prime example.
Your dog need ingest nothing other than a complete dog food and water to have a complete and balanced diet. Remember, dogs do not need variety in their diet! They are perfectly happy having the same boring looking meal every day! So keep it simple and safe, feed your dog either a complete dog food (dry or tinned, dry is better for their teeth) or standard dog biscuits and tinned dog meat together. Of course human leftovers every now and again or a bit of tripe or heart from the butcher is fine, but do not make it the day to day diet.
3) Which is the best dog food to choose?
There are so many different brands of dog food on the market, the best one is basically a matter of opinion. Certainly palatability is a factor, there is no point in purchasing a particular food if your dog cannot stand it, although this is occasionally a necessity in dogs with food allergies, for example. Rather than recommending you a specific brand, we suggest that you choose one which adheres to the criteria below.
Dog foods labeled as complete and balanced must meet standards established by the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO), either by meeting a nutrient profile or by passing a feeding trial. There are now two separate nutrient profiles for dogs - one for growth (puppies) and one for maintenance (adults). Maximum levels of intake of some nutrients have been established for the first time because of the concern that overnutrition, rather than undernutrition, is a bigger problem with many pet foods today. The standards include recommendations on protein, fat, fat soluble vitamins, water soluble vitamins, and mineral content of foods. If you are prepared to get technical, you should choose a food that comes closest to AAFCO recommendations.
In summary, consider the following points.
Choose a food that suits your dogs age, breed and overall health. Most big pet food companies will have different foods for small vs large breeds, and puppies vs adults. Dogs with medical conditions may be recommended special prescription diets.
Choose a food that come closest to AAFCO recommendations.
The ingredients contains the truth about a particular food. Everything else is there only for marketing purposes.
There are no legal and scientific definitions for the terms premium, super premium, quality, or natural.
Use dry matter numbers to evaluate and compare foods.
The source of ingredients (e.g. animal vs vegetable) does not matter, except in the case of food allergies.
Avoid supplementation. All commercial dog foods have more than enough protein, fat, vitamins, and minerals. Too many minerals can lead to severe skeletal problems in growing dogs.
Feeding your dog a good food incorrectly can lead to significant problems. For example, overfeeding puppies can lead to serious skeletal problems. Neutered dogs require portions 20% smaller than unneutered dogs or they will put on weight.
4) How many times a day do you give your dog treats?
It is hard to resist those puppy dog eyes begging you for a little piece of what you are eating. Indeed treats promote a special bond between you and your dog and it gives such pleasure when they have a delicious morsel to savor. The key word is MODERATION. If you are giving your dog regular treats, you must subtract this amount from the portion given at meal time to maintain a appropriate calorie intake. As a rule of thumb the amount of treats should never exceed 10% of your dogs daily food intake. It is far easier to make your dog obedient if you reserve treats for rewarding good behavior rather than just giving them willy nilly, where they become meaningless.
5) What do your dogs treats consist of?
Quality dog treats are usually far healthier and lower in calories than table scraps. Many dogs are fed scraps habitually from the table while families are eating, particularly by children. This only encourages further begging and feeding with often unsuitable high calorie treats which are forgotten about when it comes to measuring the dogs daily portion(s).
Matthew Homfray is one of the online experts at free pet Q&A service Televets. To ask a pet question visit http://www.televets.com
1) How many times a day do you feed your dog?
There is no set rule for adult dogs but the general consensus is that twice a day is a sensible amount. Some owners feed once a day, some three times a day. How much your dog is fed is far more important than how often really, but it is useful to set guidelines nevertheless. The reason many experts suggest twice a day rather than once a day is that once a day feeding encourages the dog to gorge his or her food as he or she is so hungry, having last had a meal a full 24 hours ago. Eating too quickly can cause reflex regurgitation or vomiting. Also it has been theorized that deep chested large breed dogs are more likely to suffer from a twisted stomach (gastric dilatation and volvulus), a life threatening condition, if they are fed one large meal daily rather than two smaller meals.
Clearly more active dogs will burn far more calories than others but these variables are best reflected in portion size rather than frequency. Some dogs with medical conditions may benefit from multiple meals of smaller portions, for example those recovering from gastroenteritis. Puppies must be fed more often than adult dogs as they have a higher metabolic rate, around 4 times a day from weaning to around 5 months old, then drop down to 3 times a day until 7 months old, then down to twice a day thereafter.
2) Is your dogs diet manufactured specifically for dogs or do you give human food or food from the butchers?
There is a misconception around that human food is higher quality than dog food, and therefore better for them. This is by and large nonsense. Reputable dog foods are formulated after extensive trials by pet food companies to provide the mixture of protein, carbohydrate and fat that suits canine physiology best. Dogs on balanced dog food diets do not get nutritional deficiencies but dogs on human food do. Certain human titbits can play havoc with your dogs digestive tract, chocolate being a prime example.
Your dog need ingest nothing other than a complete dog food and water to have a complete and balanced diet. Remember, dogs do not need variety in their diet! They are perfectly happy having the same boring looking meal every day! So keep it simple and safe, feed your dog either a complete dog food (dry or tinned, dry is better for their teeth) or standard dog biscuits and tinned dog meat together. Of course human leftovers every now and again or a bit of tripe or heart from the butcher is fine, but do not make it the day to day diet.
3) Which is the best dog food to choose?
There are so many different brands of dog food on the market, the best one is basically a matter of opinion. Certainly palatability is a factor, there is no point in purchasing a particular food if your dog cannot stand it, although this is occasionally a necessity in dogs with food allergies, for example. Rather than recommending you a specific brand, we suggest that you choose one which adheres to the criteria below.
Dog foods labeled as complete and balanced must meet standards established by the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO), either by meeting a nutrient profile or by passing a feeding trial. There are now two separate nutrient profiles for dogs - one for growth (puppies) and one for maintenance (adults). Maximum levels of intake of some nutrients have been established for the first time because of the concern that overnutrition, rather than undernutrition, is a bigger problem with many pet foods today. The standards include recommendations on protein, fat, fat soluble vitamins, water soluble vitamins, and mineral content of foods. If you are prepared to get technical, you should choose a food that comes closest to AAFCO recommendations.
In summary, consider the following points.
Choose a food that suits your dogs age, breed and overall health. Most big pet food companies will have different foods for small vs large breeds, and puppies vs adults. Dogs with medical conditions may be recommended special prescription diets.
Choose a food that come closest to AAFCO recommendations.
The ingredients contains the truth about a particular food. Everything else is there only for marketing purposes.
There are no legal and scientific definitions for the terms premium, super premium, quality, or natural.
Use dry matter numbers to evaluate and compare foods.
The source of ingredients (e.g. animal vs vegetable) does not matter, except in the case of food allergies.
Avoid supplementation. All commercial dog foods have more than enough protein, fat, vitamins, and minerals. Too many minerals can lead to severe skeletal problems in growing dogs.
Feeding your dog a good food incorrectly can lead to significant problems. For example, overfeeding puppies can lead to serious skeletal problems. Neutered dogs require portions 20% smaller than unneutered dogs or they will put on weight.
4) How many times a day do you give your dog treats?
It is hard to resist those puppy dog eyes begging you for a little piece of what you are eating. Indeed treats promote a special bond between you and your dog and it gives such pleasure when they have a delicious morsel to savor. The key word is MODERATION. If you are giving your dog regular treats, you must subtract this amount from the portion given at meal time to maintain a appropriate calorie intake. As a rule of thumb the amount of treats should never exceed 10% of your dogs daily food intake. It is far easier to make your dog obedient if you reserve treats for rewarding good behavior rather than just giving them willy nilly, where they become meaningless.
5) What do your dogs treats consist of?
Quality dog treats are usually far healthier and lower in calories than table scraps. Many dogs are fed scraps habitually from the table while families are eating, particularly by children. This only encourages further begging and feeding with often unsuitable high calorie treats which are forgotten about when it comes to measuring the dogs daily portion(s).
Matthew Homfray is one of the online experts at free pet Q&A service Televets. To ask a pet question visit http://www.televets.com
Sunday, January 6, 2008
Canine Acne
Everyone knows of acne as a human condition suffered by unfortunate teenagers during adolescence, but it is in fact quite common in certain breeds of dog too. The most susceptible breeds are young adult boxers, English bulldogs, Doberman pinschers, Great Danes and Rottweilers. The condition starts at puberty around 5 to 8 months of age. Most dogs improve with age and the condition typically resolves after one year of age, though some dogs can develop chronic acne.
Dogs with canine acne develop multiple comedones (blackheads) on their chin, lips, and muzzle. Plugs of debris made of natural substances such as keratin and sebum block the hair follicles, causing focal swellings which can rupture to form scabs.
Dogs with this condition have swellings, scabs and blackheads on their lips, chin and muzzle. These usually do not bother the dog unless a secondary bacterial skin infection develops. This can cause pain and itching, leading the dog to scratch at his/her face or rub it along the carpet.
Diagnosis is usually straight forward: the characteristic appearance described above, in one of the known susceptible breeds is usually sufficient. Your vet may decide to take a skin biopsy for confirmation, which can be done under sedation, local or general anaesthetic and then sent off to a histopathologist for analysis.
Treatment
Canine acne cannot really be cured, but can be controlled. Mild cases are usually not treated. The first step is always to rule out other conditions such as demodecosis (a mite infestation), ringworm and puppy strangles. The latter also causes anorexia and depression so if your dog is bright with a good appetite, it is unlikely to be this. Also important is to uncover any predisposing factors such as underlying allergies. Some of the breeds mentioned above, such as Boxers, are particularly susceptible to food allergy. Regular cleaning with anti-acne products (eg benzoyl peroxide) or mild anti-seborrheic shampoos will be required to decrease the bacterial load of the skin and remove cellular debris which could contribute to blocking the pores.
If pustules have ruptured and a secondary bacterial infection develops, your dog will need to take antibiotics for 3 or 4 weeks. Most broad spectrum antibiotics are effective, but to avoid any resistance problems a bacteriology swab is advisable so that a suitable antibiotic can be chosen with certain efficacy against the bacterium in question.
If a dog is scratching at his/her face a lot, an anti-inflammatory drug such as a one off steroid injection is probably indicated to alleviate the discomfort.
Refractory and recurrent cases can sometimes respond to retinoid therapy, similar to the human drug Roaccutane, which essentially stops the sebaceous glands in the skin from producing sebum. This however requires a veterinary specialists consent.
Dogs with canine acne develop multiple comedones (blackheads) on their chin, lips, and muzzle. Plugs of debris made of natural substances such as keratin and sebum block the hair follicles, causing focal swellings which can rupture to form scabs.
Dogs with this condition have swellings, scabs and blackheads on their lips, chin and muzzle. These usually do not bother the dog unless a secondary bacterial skin infection develops. This can cause pain and itching, leading the dog to scratch at his/her face or rub it along the carpet.
Diagnosis is usually straight forward: the characteristic appearance described above, in one of the known susceptible breeds is usually sufficient. Your vet may decide to take a skin biopsy for confirmation, which can be done under sedation, local or general anaesthetic and then sent off to a histopathologist for analysis.
Treatment
Canine acne cannot really be cured, but can be controlled. Mild cases are usually not treated. The first step is always to rule out other conditions such as demodecosis (a mite infestation), ringworm and puppy strangles. The latter also causes anorexia and depression so if your dog is bright with a good appetite, it is unlikely to be this. Also important is to uncover any predisposing factors such as underlying allergies. Some of the breeds mentioned above, such as Boxers, are particularly susceptible to food allergy. Regular cleaning with anti-acne products (eg benzoyl peroxide) or mild anti-seborrheic shampoos will be required to decrease the bacterial load of the skin and remove cellular debris which could contribute to blocking the pores.
If pustules have ruptured and a secondary bacterial infection develops, your dog will need to take antibiotics for 3 or 4 weeks. Most broad spectrum antibiotics are effective, but to avoid any resistance problems a bacteriology swab is advisable so that a suitable antibiotic can be chosen with certain efficacy against the bacterium in question.
If a dog is scratching at his/her face a lot, an anti-inflammatory drug such as a one off steroid injection is probably indicated to alleviate the discomfort.
Refractory and recurrent cases can sometimes respond to retinoid therapy, similar to the human drug Roaccutane, which essentially stops the sebaceous glands in the skin from producing sebum. This however requires a veterinary specialists consent.
Saturday, January 5, 2008
Lick Granulomas in Dogs
Canine Acral Lick Dermatitis, more commonly known as ‘Lick Granuloma’, is one of the most frustrating skin problems there is. What often seems like a simple problem is in fact multifactorial, and therefore attempting to treat it with a single approach are usually doomed to failure. There is usually an underlying cause, plus a secondary bacterial infection, plus an obsessive-compulsive behavioral cycle to deal with.
Lick granulomas are most common in large, active, attention-seeking breeds such as Dobermans, Rottweilers, Labrador retrievers, German Shepherds and Irish Setters. It can however happen in any breed, at any age.
The wound (‘lesion’) develops as a result of the repetitive licking action of the animal. Chronic trauma to the site results in follicular rupture and furunculosis. The lesion is usually single, oval and varies in size from 2-6cm. It is usually found over the carpal (wrist) or metacarpal areas, though can also occur on the back leg. The lesion usually manifests as a raised, firm, hairless nodule or plaque and may have an ulcerated surface.
Almost without exception, lick granulomas are infected. Bacteria from the mouth are seeded in the lesion by the constant licking, which leads to the infection and a perpetuation of the licking cycle. In the early stages at least, the infection is usually by Staphylococcus species.
Identifying the Underlying Cause
Once it has been established that the dog does indeed have a lick granuloma, and not a skin tumor for example (usually obvious by clinical signs, though biopsy is definitive) then the dog must be examined for the presence of other skin, orthopaedic and neurological disease. A full clinical history and physical examination is mandatory. The following approach would be considered a very thorough one; most vets will simply bandage the leg and try a long course of antibiotics – sometimes successfully – but in the interests of those that cannot be fixed by this approach (and many cannot) I shall describe the thorough approach.
Skin tests should include skin-scraping, hair plucking, fine needle aspirates and/or a punch biopsy from a non-ulcerated area. A bacteriology swab should also ideally be taken for culture and sensitivity, to enable optimal antibiotic selection.
Orthopaedic investigation should include survey radiographs (Xrays) of the area, comprising at least 2 views, to look for bony lesions. If the lick granuloma is over a joint, then synovial fluid may be sampled.
For neurological assessment, a thorough knowledge of the nerves innervating the skin is required, and electromyography has been used to identify specific neurological deficits (this is realistically outside the realms of most practitioners).
Treatment of Medical Conditions
Lick granulomas are part infection, part behavioral and part other causes. After screening for underlying disease as described above, the next step is getting rid of any bacterial infection.
Topical antibiotic creams are useless in these cases. They only draw attention to the lesion from the dogs perspective, and perpetuate the licking. Systemic (oral) antibiotics are required, and are needed for a minimum of 3 weeks (and often up to 3 months). The choice of antibiotic is best made following bacterial culture and sensitivity, first line drugs often selected include cefalexin, amoxicillin and clindamycin. If resistance to these is suspected or confirmed, then more expensive antibiotics such as enrofloxacin (Baytril) or marbofloxacin (Marbocyl) can be prescribed.
Treatment of a Behavioral Problem
Many different treatments have been tried in order to break the compulsive behavioral component of lick granulomas. These include:
Corticosteroids (prednisone, medrone)
Non steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs)
Surgical excision
Orgotein
Cobra venom
Radiation therapy
Electronic collars
Acupunctire
Cryotherapy
Laser treatment
However, no one therapy has been consistently shown to resolve the problem without recurrence. Recent work has suggested that a combination of drugs and behavioral modification is the best approach.
The only drug currently licensed for behavioral therapy in the dog is clomipramine (Clomicalm). The main side effect of this is sedation, and it cannot be given to animals with pre-existing liver or kidney dysfunction. Better drugs for this purpose are the serotonin reuptake inhibitors (SRIs), such as sertraline and fluoxetine. These SRIs have less side effects and can be used long term, but have a slow onset of action so when being trialed, must be given for a minimum of 4-6 weeks before any judgment is made as to efficacy.
Behavioral modification depends on the cause of the stress involved. For fear and anxiety related stress, avoid leaving the dog alone, leave the dog in a favored place (e.g. car) or vary the arrival and departure routine so that the dog doesn’t realize its owner is going out.
For boredom related stress, increase the visual or auditory stimulation by providing new toys, leaving the radio or TV on etc.
For attention-seeking stress, ignore stereotypical behavior to avoid reinforcement, and do not punish the behavior as this may lead to anxiety and complicate matters.
To conclude, lick granulomas are a difficult disease to manage. However, if the veterinarian’s approach is logical, then appropriate investigation, together with antibiotic treatment, behavioral drugs and behavioral modification, can achieve a high degree of clinical resolution if not always a complete cure.
Lick granulomas are most common in large, active, attention-seeking breeds such as Dobermans, Rottweilers, Labrador retrievers, German Shepherds and Irish Setters. It can however happen in any breed, at any age.
The wound (‘lesion’) develops as a result of the repetitive licking action of the animal. Chronic trauma to the site results in follicular rupture and furunculosis. The lesion is usually single, oval and varies in size from 2-6cm. It is usually found over the carpal (wrist) or metacarpal areas, though can also occur on the back leg. The lesion usually manifests as a raised, firm, hairless nodule or plaque and may have an ulcerated surface.
Almost without exception, lick granulomas are infected. Bacteria from the mouth are seeded in the lesion by the constant licking, which leads to the infection and a perpetuation of the licking cycle. In the early stages at least, the infection is usually by Staphylococcus species.
Identifying the Underlying Cause
Once it has been established that the dog does indeed have a lick granuloma, and not a skin tumor for example (usually obvious by clinical signs, though biopsy is definitive) then the dog must be examined for the presence of other skin, orthopaedic and neurological disease. A full clinical history and physical examination is mandatory. The following approach would be considered a very thorough one; most vets will simply bandage the leg and try a long course of antibiotics – sometimes successfully – but in the interests of those that cannot be fixed by this approach (and many cannot) I shall describe the thorough approach.
Skin tests should include skin-scraping, hair plucking, fine needle aspirates and/or a punch biopsy from a non-ulcerated area. A bacteriology swab should also ideally be taken for culture and sensitivity, to enable optimal antibiotic selection.
Orthopaedic investigation should include survey radiographs (Xrays) of the area, comprising at least 2 views, to look for bony lesions. If the lick granuloma is over a joint, then synovial fluid may be sampled.
For neurological assessment, a thorough knowledge of the nerves innervating the skin is required, and electromyography has been used to identify specific neurological deficits (this is realistically outside the realms of most practitioners).
Treatment of Medical Conditions
Lick granulomas are part infection, part behavioral and part other causes. After screening for underlying disease as described above, the next step is getting rid of any bacterial infection.
Topical antibiotic creams are useless in these cases. They only draw attention to the lesion from the dogs perspective, and perpetuate the licking. Systemic (oral) antibiotics are required, and are needed for a minimum of 3 weeks (and often up to 3 months). The choice of antibiotic is best made following bacterial culture and sensitivity, first line drugs often selected include cefalexin, amoxicillin and clindamycin. If resistance to these is suspected or confirmed, then more expensive antibiotics such as enrofloxacin (Baytril) or marbofloxacin (Marbocyl) can be prescribed.
Treatment of a Behavioral Problem
Many different treatments have been tried in order to break the compulsive behavioral component of lick granulomas. These include:
Corticosteroids (prednisone, medrone)
Non steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs)
Surgical excision
Orgotein
Cobra venom
Radiation therapy
Electronic collars
Acupunctire
Cryotherapy
Laser treatment
However, no one therapy has been consistently shown to resolve the problem without recurrence. Recent work has suggested that a combination of drugs and behavioral modification is the best approach.
The only drug currently licensed for behavioral therapy in the dog is clomipramine (Clomicalm). The main side effect of this is sedation, and it cannot be given to animals with pre-existing liver or kidney dysfunction. Better drugs for this purpose are the serotonin reuptake inhibitors (SRIs), such as sertraline and fluoxetine. These SRIs have less side effects and can be used long term, but have a slow onset of action so when being trialed, must be given for a minimum of 4-6 weeks before any judgment is made as to efficacy.
Behavioral modification depends on the cause of the stress involved. For fear and anxiety related stress, avoid leaving the dog alone, leave the dog in a favored place (e.g. car) or vary the arrival and departure routine so that the dog doesn’t realize its owner is going out.
For boredom related stress, increase the visual or auditory stimulation by providing new toys, leaving the radio or TV on etc.
For attention-seeking stress, ignore stereotypical behavior to avoid reinforcement, and do not punish the behavior as this may lead to anxiety and complicate matters.
To conclude, lick granulomas are a difficult disease to manage. However, if the veterinarian’s approach is logical, then appropriate investigation, together with antibiotic treatment, behavioral drugs and behavioral modification, can achieve a high degree of clinical resolution if not always a complete cure.
Thursday, January 3, 2008
Arthritis & Cats
A joint is a flexible connection between two bones. Its purpose is to allow movement. Some joints are relatively simple and permit only a limited range of movement. Others, such as the hip or the jaw, are quite complex and are designed to enable the two bones to move in several directions.
"Arthritis" means inflammation within the joint. this condition usually results in pain and a degree of lameness. Arthritis is not particularly common in cats, especially when compared with its incidence in humans. For all its apparent familiarity to us, the condition is often poorly understood by cat owners. One particularly common misconception is that Arthritis and Rheumatism are the same thing (Rheumatism is a specific type of Arthritis). An understanding of what Arthritis is, how it develops, and what you can do about it will help you cope with an Arthritic cat.
Signs
The severity of the signs varies with the amount of damage to the joint and rate at which damage occurs. Signs should include:
- Hot, swollen joint.
- Pain - Cat might limp or even refuse to bear weight on the joint.
- Stiffness, lameness. The cat might be slow or reluctant to stand up after rest.
- A general loss or reduction of normal free function.
Treatment
The treatment depends to some extent on the cause of the Arthritis. The aim is to minimise further damage and to relieve the pain and inflammation.
When bacterial infection is the cause Antibiotics are used, but it is difficult to get Antibiotics into the joint and therefore to the site of infection. This is because everything that gets into the joint is filtered, purified and modified first. There is no blood within the joint. Instead, there is joint fluid, which is responsible for lubrication and nutrition, because the joint is protected from Antibiotics, infections within a joint can flourish. Although there are ways of overcoming this problem, it is nevertheless difficult to eliminate an infection without surgical intervention, once it has invaded a joint.
The treatment of Arthritis involves controlling the inflammation thus reducing the pain, plus stabilizing the joint if possible. This might involve repair of loose or broken ligaments. Reduction of any excess weight will also help.
There is a range of drugs that can be used. Aspirin is quite effective, but cats have great difficulty in excreting it. It is better and wiser to leave the choice and dose rates of drugs to your Veterinary Surgeon.
If your cat is overweight then it should be put on a pure diet to lose weight. Extra calcium or bonemeal should be added to food, and oils such as vitamin E daily and a little cod liver oil twice a week along with vitamin C may be beneficial. REMEMBER: It is important never to overdose cod liver oil, a quarter of a teaspoon is sufficient. Nutritionally vitamin C, A, D and E supplements are the most beneficial and collagen supplements could be useful.
Glucosamine (An animo sugar, that is a constituent of Heparin and other Polysaccharides) and Chondriton are substances which supposedly help regenerate cartilage.
Homoeopathically: Rhus Tox is the most commonly used remedy and Bryonia and Pulsatilla may also help. For older cats try Arnica.
Herbally: Nettles can be very effective; Alfalfa and Garlic may help.
Ask Online Vets for more Information on Cat Arthritis problems.
Cat Flu
Like people, many cats can develop the sneezing, runny nose, and general lethargy of an upper-respiratory-tract infection. Although the outward signs of a feline upper-respiratory-tract infection resemble the signs of a human cold most of the organisms that infect a cat’s nose and throat have no effect on people. And the opposite is true, human colds will not infect cats.
Feline respiratory infections are very contagious to other nearby cats. Just as a human cold virus can spread quickly through a household or workplace, a feline respiratory infection can to other felines in close proximity. In some cases, the disease can be prevented from spreading by isolation and sanitation of the feeding bowels. The problem is that most respiratory diseases are air borne and also can contaminate and be transmitted on clothing. Therefore, quick recognition and action are necessary prevent the infection from spreading to other household or neighborhood cats.
There are many types of constantly changing viruses causing colds and flu in humans. At the present time veterinarian researchers can trace most of the feline upper-respiratory-tract infections to two known viruses: feline viral rhinotracheitis (FVR) and feline calicivirus (FCV). As stated later in the article, there are several different strains of both viruses.
Although both viruses cause similar clinical effects, FVR (also known as feline herpesvirus-1[FHV-1]) usually causes a more severe illness than FCV. A cat suffering from an active FVR infection may sneeze frequently, become lethargic, salivate excessively, and lose its appetite. As the illness progresses, the cat may develop a thick nasal discharge. Some cats also develop conjunctivitis, an inflammation of the membrane that lines the eyelids and parts of the eyeball. FVR infection rarely spreads to the lower respiratory tract (the bronchi and lungs), but when it does, it can cause pneumonia.
FCV infection causes effects similar to FVR infections - although typically milder. Cats suffering from FCV infections often develop painful ulcers on their tongues, lips, or the roofs of their mouths - sometimes with no other sign of respiratory infection. (FVR-infected cats also occasionally develop oral ulcers.) Infrequently, cats with FCV infection may limp (temporarily) due to joint pain and swelling.
Your cat’s immune system may be compromised by a viral respiratory infection. This may allow a secondary bacterial infection to develop and exacerbate the clinical signs of the viral infection. One type of bacteria, Chlamydia psittaci, can cause upper-respiratory-tract infections (sometimes called pneumonitis) even in cats that are not weakened by a respiratory virus. Chlamydia infections are far less common than viral respiratory infections and usually occur as a local outbreak in a cattery or household. A Chlamydia infection can cause sneezing and a runny nose, but it primarily affects the eyes, causing conjunctivitis in first one eye and then the other. In contrast, when FVR or FCV causes conjunctivitis, both eyes are affected simultaneously. Chlamydia is very susceptible to antibiotic ophthalmic drops or ointments.
Most upper respiratory infections run their course in several days. But, veterinary examinations are highly recommended with any sign of a respiratory disease. Treatment of both diseases FVR and FCV is the same. This includes proper rest, good nutrition, and proper nursing care.
Appetite and water intake are two crucial areas owner should pay attention to. An infected cat may lose its appetite because of debility and discomfort brought on by the illness, a decreased sense of smell due to a stuffy nose, or sores in its mouth that make eating painful Owners can try feeding their cat a special food - something the cat really likes or something particularly strong smelling, like sardines, that might arouse the cat’s interest in eating. If a cat stops eating and drinking altogether for a day or more or is eating and drinking poorly for several days, an owner should take the cat in for a veterinary examination. Veterinarians generally try to avoid hospitalizing cats with upper-respiratory-tract infections because they usually eat better and recover faster at home. However, a veterinarian may recommend putting a dehydrated or malnourished cat in the hospital so it can receive injectable fluids or tube feeding for a few days. The veterinarian may also administer antibiotics if there are signs of secondary bacterial infection.
Upper-respiratory-tract infections are rarely fatal, but can be very debilitating. In some cases these infections can be lethal especially to a kitten, an elderly cat, or a cat with an immune system that is already compromised by another disease. Because kittens face such high risks, owners should contact their veterinarian at the first sign of an upper-respiratory illness in a kitten.
Thanks to the availability of vaccinations against FVR and FCV, upper-respiratory-tract infections are no longer the problem they were before the mid-1970s. Because FCV (like many viruses) manifests different strains, veterinarians must vaccinate a cat against several strains of the virus to assure reasonable protection. In contrast, FVR is essentially the same virus wherever it shows up, so one type of vaccine does the trick. Even with vaccination, though, a cat may become infected, but the illness is usually less severe and shorter lived than if the cat were unvaccinated.
Pharmaceutical companies have also developed vaccines that provide limited protection against Chlamydia. But because Chlamydia infections are so uncommon, many veterinarians do not routinely vaccinate against them. Vaccination is probably useful in catteries or households with a history of the disease.
Veterinarians typically use a combined vaccine known as FVRCP (feline viral rhinotracheitis, calicivirus, and panleukopenia) to protect cats from FVR, most strains of FCV, and panleukopenia - a life-threatening systemic infection. Vaccination for kittens usually begins at about 7-8 weeks of age. Kittens receive temporary immunity to many diseases from the antibody-rich colostrum in their mother’s first milk. And during this brief period of temporary "natural" immunity, vaccinations will not have any significant effect as the antibodies in the colostrum will suppress fight against any immunity the vaccine is intended to stimulate. So veterinarians usually wait until kittens are about 6 to 8 weeks old - when their colostrum-induced immunity begins to wear off. Veterinarians provide follow-up vaccinations at 3- to 4- week intervals until kittens are about 14 to 16 weeks old to provide the greatest possible immunity. Adult cats need an annual revaccination for continued protection.
Many cats that have recovered from the outward signs of upper-respiratory-tract infections remain carriers and continue to shed the virus for months or even years afterward. Even cats that have never shown obvious signs of a respiratory infection may sometimes carry FCV or FVR and shed it.
Upper respiratory tract infections (colloquially known as 'cat flu') should not be taken lightly. Recently, we had an adult cat exposed to a virus after the owners visited a shelter and after handling some sick kittens, brought the virus home on their bodies and clothing, infected their cat. This poor creature developed a temperature of 106 degrees (normal temperature is 100-102 degrees) and was extremely ill. After intensive treatment our patient survived, but now has a recurring conjunctivitis and probably is a carrier and will always be susceptible to recurrent bouts of conjunctivitis and respiratory infections. Carriers of FCV persistently shed the virus in their saliva and nasal discharges - both during illness and after outward signs of illness have passed. Carriers of FVR, on the other hand, experience both latent (non shedding) and active (potentially shedding) phases of the infection. After the clinical signs of FVR disappear, a cat may enter a latent phase during which the cat shows no signs of illness and does not shed the virus. However, when stressed (by illness or a change in environment, for example), an FVR carrier may enter an active disease phase during which the virus begins replicating in the cat’s body. In response to this surge in viral activity, the cat may once again show clinical signs, such as sneezing or nasal discharge, or may resume shedding the virus with no outward signs of illness.
If a nursing mother is a latent carrier of the FVR virus, her litter may be threatened to a high risk of infection. The stress of nursing often triggers the return of an active viral stage - at the time the kittens’ colostrum-induced immunity wears off. The virus then quickly spreads to the kittens. An owner who knows a nursing mother has had an FVR (or FCV) infection should consult a veterinarian. The veterinarian may recommend weaning the kittens early and separating them from their mother before they can become infected.
Although feline upper-respiratory-tract infections are highly contagious, both FVR and FCV are short lived in the environment. At common room temperatures and humidity levels, FVR rarely survives beyond 18 hours, and FCV survives only for a few days. A cat can transmit either virus (via water droplets) when it sneezes. But another cat can catch the airborne virus only if the sneezing cat is within approximately a 3-foot distance.
Infection spreads most readily from cat to cat by direct contact or shared contact with feeding dishes or toys. Transmission may also occur by transient contamination on the owners clothes. If an owner isolates a cat known to be infected and makes sure that healthy cat house mates do not share its dishes or playthings, the infection is less likely to spread throughout the household. Washing hands after handling an infected cat and even changing clothing may help defer or eliminate the spread of disease.
Ultimately, the best way to avoid a feline respiratory infection is to vaccinate your cat and kittens. Vaccination is the best protection currently available.
Feline respiratory infections are very contagious to other nearby cats. Just as a human cold virus can spread quickly through a household or workplace, a feline respiratory infection can to other felines in close proximity. In some cases, the disease can be prevented from spreading by isolation and sanitation of the feeding bowels. The problem is that most respiratory diseases are air borne and also can contaminate and be transmitted on clothing. Therefore, quick recognition and action are necessary prevent the infection from spreading to other household or neighborhood cats.
There are many types of constantly changing viruses causing colds and flu in humans. At the present time veterinarian researchers can trace most of the feline upper-respiratory-tract infections to two known viruses: feline viral rhinotracheitis (FVR) and feline calicivirus (FCV). As stated later in the article, there are several different strains of both viruses.
Although both viruses cause similar clinical effects, FVR (also known as feline herpesvirus-1[FHV-1]) usually causes a more severe illness than FCV. A cat suffering from an active FVR infection may sneeze frequently, become lethargic, salivate excessively, and lose its appetite. As the illness progresses, the cat may develop a thick nasal discharge. Some cats also develop conjunctivitis, an inflammation of the membrane that lines the eyelids and parts of the eyeball. FVR infection rarely spreads to the lower respiratory tract (the bronchi and lungs), but when it does, it can cause pneumonia.
FCV infection causes effects similar to FVR infections - although typically milder. Cats suffering from FCV infections often develop painful ulcers on their tongues, lips, or the roofs of their mouths - sometimes with no other sign of respiratory infection. (FVR-infected cats also occasionally develop oral ulcers.) Infrequently, cats with FCV infection may limp (temporarily) due to joint pain and swelling.
Your cat’s immune system may be compromised by a viral respiratory infection. This may allow a secondary bacterial infection to develop and exacerbate the clinical signs of the viral infection. One type of bacteria, Chlamydia psittaci, can cause upper-respiratory-tract infections (sometimes called pneumonitis) even in cats that are not weakened by a respiratory virus. Chlamydia infections are far less common than viral respiratory infections and usually occur as a local outbreak in a cattery or household. A Chlamydia infection can cause sneezing and a runny nose, but it primarily affects the eyes, causing conjunctivitis in first one eye and then the other. In contrast, when FVR or FCV causes conjunctivitis, both eyes are affected simultaneously. Chlamydia is very susceptible to antibiotic ophthalmic drops or ointments.
Most upper respiratory infections run their course in several days. But, veterinary examinations are highly recommended with any sign of a respiratory disease. Treatment of both diseases FVR and FCV is the same. This includes proper rest, good nutrition, and proper nursing care.
Appetite and water intake are two crucial areas owner should pay attention to. An infected cat may lose its appetite because of debility and discomfort brought on by the illness, a decreased sense of smell due to a stuffy nose, or sores in its mouth that make eating painful Owners can try feeding their cat a special food - something the cat really likes or something particularly strong smelling, like sardines, that might arouse the cat’s interest in eating. If a cat stops eating and drinking altogether for a day or more or is eating and drinking poorly for several days, an owner should take the cat in for a veterinary examination. Veterinarians generally try to avoid hospitalizing cats with upper-respiratory-tract infections because they usually eat better and recover faster at home. However, a veterinarian may recommend putting a dehydrated or malnourished cat in the hospital so it can receive injectable fluids or tube feeding for a few days. The veterinarian may also administer antibiotics if there are signs of secondary bacterial infection.
Upper-respiratory-tract infections are rarely fatal, but can be very debilitating. In some cases these infections can be lethal especially to a kitten, an elderly cat, or a cat with an immune system that is already compromised by another disease. Because kittens face such high risks, owners should contact their veterinarian at the first sign of an upper-respiratory illness in a kitten.
Thanks to the availability of vaccinations against FVR and FCV, upper-respiratory-tract infections are no longer the problem they were before the mid-1970s. Because FCV (like many viruses) manifests different strains, veterinarians must vaccinate a cat against several strains of the virus to assure reasonable protection. In contrast, FVR is essentially the same virus wherever it shows up, so one type of vaccine does the trick. Even with vaccination, though, a cat may become infected, but the illness is usually less severe and shorter lived than if the cat were unvaccinated.
Pharmaceutical companies have also developed vaccines that provide limited protection against Chlamydia. But because Chlamydia infections are so uncommon, many veterinarians do not routinely vaccinate against them. Vaccination is probably useful in catteries or households with a history of the disease.
Veterinarians typically use a combined vaccine known as FVRCP (feline viral rhinotracheitis, calicivirus, and panleukopenia) to protect cats from FVR, most strains of FCV, and panleukopenia - a life-threatening systemic infection. Vaccination for kittens usually begins at about 7-8 weeks of age. Kittens receive temporary immunity to many diseases from the antibody-rich colostrum in their mother’s first milk. And during this brief period of temporary "natural" immunity, vaccinations will not have any significant effect as the antibodies in the colostrum will suppress fight against any immunity the vaccine is intended to stimulate. So veterinarians usually wait until kittens are about 6 to 8 weeks old - when their colostrum-induced immunity begins to wear off. Veterinarians provide follow-up vaccinations at 3- to 4- week intervals until kittens are about 14 to 16 weeks old to provide the greatest possible immunity. Adult cats need an annual revaccination for continued protection.
Many cats that have recovered from the outward signs of upper-respiratory-tract infections remain carriers and continue to shed the virus for months or even years afterward. Even cats that have never shown obvious signs of a respiratory infection may sometimes carry FCV or FVR and shed it.
Upper respiratory tract infections (colloquially known as 'cat flu') should not be taken lightly. Recently, we had an adult cat exposed to a virus after the owners visited a shelter and after handling some sick kittens, brought the virus home on their bodies and clothing, infected their cat. This poor creature developed a temperature of 106 degrees (normal temperature is 100-102 degrees) and was extremely ill. After intensive treatment our patient survived, but now has a recurring conjunctivitis and probably is a carrier and will always be susceptible to recurrent bouts of conjunctivitis and respiratory infections. Carriers of FCV persistently shed the virus in their saliva and nasal discharges - both during illness and after outward signs of illness have passed. Carriers of FVR, on the other hand, experience both latent (non shedding) and active (potentially shedding) phases of the infection. After the clinical signs of FVR disappear, a cat may enter a latent phase during which the cat shows no signs of illness and does not shed the virus. However, when stressed (by illness or a change in environment, for example), an FVR carrier may enter an active disease phase during which the virus begins replicating in the cat’s body. In response to this surge in viral activity, the cat may once again show clinical signs, such as sneezing or nasal discharge, or may resume shedding the virus with no outward signs of illness.
If a nursing mother is a latent carrier of the FVR virus, her litter may be threatened to a high risk of infection. The stress of nursing often triggers the return of an active viral stage - at the time the kittens’ colostrum-induced immunity wears off. The virus then quickly spreads to the kittens. An owner who knows a nursing mother has had an FVR (or FCV) infection should consult a veterinarian. The veterinarian may recommend weaning the kittens early and separating them from their mother before they can become infected.
Although feline upper-respiratory-tract infections are highly contagious, both FVR and FCV are short lived in the environment. At common room temperatures and humidity levels, FVR rarely survives beyond 18 hours, and FCV survives only for a few days. A cat can transmit either virus (via water droplets) when it sneezes. But another cat can catch the airborne virus only if the sneezing cat is within approximately a 3-foot distance.
Infection spreads most readily from cat to cat by direct contact or shared contact with feeding dishes or toys. Transmission may also occur by transient contamination on the owners clothes. If an owner isolates a cat known to be infected and makes sure that healthy cat house mates do not share its dishes or playthings, the infection is less likely to spread throughout the household. Washing hands after handling an infected cat and even changing clothing may help defer or eliminate the spread of disease.
Ultimately, the best way to avoid a feline respiratory infection is to vaccinate your cat and kittens. Vaccination is the best protection currently available.
Cats and Taste
It appears, cats have a greater sensitivity to taste than people. They have about twice the number of smell receptors in their nasal passage the humans and have different culinary preferences.
While the nose provides information on the subtleties of odor and flavor, it’s the tongue that does the most of the work of tasting. On the tongue’s surface their are tissues called papillae that hold many microscopic clusters of taste-sensitive cells (taste buds). When your cat eats a mouthful of food, its saliva dissolves some of the chemical components in the food, including salts, acids, and sugars. The taste buds detect these dissolved chemicals and signal the brain by way of three pairs of cranial nerves. Because taste buds on different areas of the tongue vary in their sensitivity to particular types of chemicals, the brain can identify a taste based on the pattern of signals it receives.
Your cat’s tongue has other talents beyond tasting. It also senses texture and temperature and acts as a ladle to pick up liquids and tiny food morsels. As with all animals, during swallowing, muscles at the base of the tongue pull on the hyoid apparatus, a set of small bones in the throat. These bones then shift forward, closing off the windpipe with a flap of tissue called the epiglottis.
The cat’s tongue has a rough surfaced sandpaper texture. This is created by the stiff, curved filiform papillae in the tongue’s center. This rough surface helps cats during grooming. But this textured tongue also aids in feeding. Wild cats use their tongues to remove feathers or fur from their prey and to lick meat from the bones. Oddly enough, the only other domestic animals that have raspy tongues are the vegetarian cow and its relatives.
While we know quite a lot about the structure of the feline tongue, we know considerably less about its tasting abilities. After all, your cat can’t tell you whether it perceives something as sweet, sour, or bitter. Nevertheless, scientists have tried to assess the gustatory sensitivity of cats by training them to discriminate between plain water and water mixed with sugar, salt, or some other substance. The results of these taste tests suggest that cats can detect sour, bitter, and salty tastes, but not sweet ones.
Cats appear to be sensitive to the taste of water itself. While humans generally consider water to be tasteless, cats show a high sensitivity to natural variations in water flavor. This may explain why certain cats are picky in their drinking habits. Some cats will only drink running water from the tap. I know of other cats that will drink only from unmentionable sources!
Do cats have a sweet tooth? Many people say their cats show a district preference for sweet foods like ice cream, cookies, and fruit. The evidence may be misleading. The textures of these foods - called mouth feel - may actually be more important that their taste. For example, the desire for ice cream , may be due to its iciness and creaminess - not its sweetness. It’s also possible that dessert-eating cats are simply mimicking owner food preferences. Unfortunately, owners don’t always set the best example for their cats. Many human foods contribute nothing to feline nutrition and health - and some foods may actually be harmful. Our hospital pet “Cricket” loves cranberry juice, mandarin oranges, cranberry-orange muffins, and of course cat food. Go figure!
As your cat goes about deciding which foods it likes, it weighs several factors. The odor, taste, and feel of a food in the mouth seem important . Cats will often choose foods with lots of meat, a powerful aroma, a high fat content, a combination of soft and crispy textures, and a temperature of about 98 degrees. This is about the temperature of fresh killed mammals.
Cats also prefer variety in their diets. If they have a choice between two equally palatable foods, one familiar and the other unfamiliar, most will eat more of the new stuff - at least for a few days. Eventually, of course, the new stuff becomes as mundane as the old stuff. This feline preference for novel foods probably explains why so many types of cat food on supermarket shelves. It may also account for the “finicky” reputation of cats. But this infamous dietary pickiness may be more fabled than real. Most cats eat heartily even with only one item on their menu - unless they are ill.
Although your cat may prefer variety, there’s a downside to an ever-changing diet. Some cats may suffer indigestion or allergic reactions after eating new foods. And animals with certain medical conditions may need to stay on a prescribed diet. An occasional change of diet is fine for healthy cats.
We recommend feeding the higher quality - and therefore usually higher priced - cat foods. You get what you pay for. The reasoning behind this is simple. Pet foods that are less expensive are inconsistent in their ingredients and probably are using more by-products and less quality protein sources. I definitely would ask your veterinarian for recommendations as to the type of foods they endorse (though beware also, they may have special deals with certain pet food companies and therefore not give you an unbiased view). Feeding dry foods also may help with your pet’s dental needs by cleaning off some of the plaque buildup.
If you’ve ever had such a bad cold that it totally clogged your nose and sinuses and made your favorite curry dinner taste like cardboard, you know that losing your sense of smell and taste can put a real damper on your appetite. The same seems to be true of cats.
If your cat is ill and stops eating, it could suffer serious repercussions from even a mini-hunger strike. Cats that quit eating for several days can become weak and dehydrated, and prolonged fasting can lead to a condition called hepatic lipidosis, a dangerous accumulation of fat in the liver. Therefore, if your pet has not eaten for several days, see your veterinarian immediately.
To assist your sick cat in eating and, after consulting with your veterinarian, you may attempt the following:
Feed a very smelly food, such as sardines, tuna, or liver.
Heat up the food slightly. This will increase the aroma.
Hand feed your cat.
If it still is not eating, seek veterinary attention immediately.
While the nose provides information on the subtleties of odor and flavor, it’s the tongue that does the most of the work of tasting. On the tongue’s surface their are tissues called papillae that hold many microscopic clusters of taste-sensitive cells (taste buds). When your cat eats a mouthful of food, its saliva dissolves some of the chemical components in the food, including salts, acids, and sugars. The taste buds detect these dissolved chemicals and signal the brain by way of three pairs of cranial nerves. Because taste buds on different areas of the tongue vary in their sensitivity to particular types of chemicals, the brain can identify a taste based on the pattern of signals it receives.
Your cat’s tongue has other talents beyond tasting. It also senses texture and temperature and acts as a ladle to pick up liquids and tiny food morsels. As with all animals, during swallowing, muscles at the base of the tongue pull on the hyoid apparatus, a set of small bones in the throat. These bones then shift forward, closing off the windpipe with a flap of tissue called the epiglottis.
The cat’s tongue has a rough surfaced sandpaper texture. This is created by the stiff, curved filiform papillae in the tongue’s center. This rough surface helps cats during grooming. But this textured tongue also aids in feeding. Wild cats use their tongues to remove feathers or fur from their prey and to lick meat from the bones. Oddly enough, the only other domestic animals that have raspy tongues are the vegetarian cow and its relatives.
While we know quite a lot about the structure of the feline tongue, we know considerably less about its tasting abilities. After all, your cat can’t tell you whether it perceives something as sweet, sour, or bitter. Nevertheless, scientists have tried to assess the gustatory sensitivity of cats by training them to discriminate between plain water and water mixed with sugar, salt, or some other substance. The results of these taste tests suggest that cats can detect sour, bitter, and salty tastes, but not sweet ones.
Cats appear to be sensitive to the taste of water itself. While humans generally consider water to be tasteless, cats show a high sensitivity to natural variations in water flavor. This may explain why certain cats are picky in their drinking habits. Some cats will only drink running water from the tap. I know of other cats that will drink only from unmentionable sources!
Do cats have a sweet tooth? Many people say their cats show a district preference for sweet foods like ice cream, cookies, and fruit. The evidence may be misleading. The textures of these foods - called mouth feel - may actually be more important that their taste. For example, the desire for ice cream , may be due to its iciness and creaminess - not its sweetness. It’s also possible that dessert-eating cats are simply mimicking owner food preferences. Unfortunately, owners don’t always set the best example for their cats. Many human foods contribute nothing to feline nutrition and health - and some foods may actually be harmful. Our hospital pet “Cricket” loves cranberry juice, mandarin oranges, cranberry-orange muffins, and of course cat food. Go figure!
As your cat goes about deciding which foods it likes, it weighs several factors. The odor, taste, and feel of a food in the mouth seem important . Cats will often choose foods with lots of meat, a powerful aroma, a high fat content, a combination of soft and crispy textures, and a temperature of about 98 degrees. This is about the temperature of fresh killed mammals.
Cats also prefer variety in their diets. If they have a choice between two equally palatable foods, one familiar and the other unfamiliar, most will eat more of the new stuff - at least for a few days. Eventually, of course, the new stuff becomes as mundane as the old stuff. This feline preference for novel foods probably explains why so many types of cat food on supermarket shelves. It may also account for the “finicky” reputation of cats. But this infamous dietary pickiness may be more fabled than real. Most cats eat heartily even with only one item on their menu - unless they are ill.
Although your cat may prefer variety, there’s a downside to an ever-changing diet. Some cats may suffer indigestion or allergic reactions after eating new foods. And animals with certain medical conditions may need to stay on a prescribed diet. An occasional change of diet is fine for healthy cats.
We recommend feeding the higher quality - and therefore usually higher priced - cat foods. You get what you pay for. The reasoning behind this is simple. Pet foods that are less expensive are inconsistent in their ingredients and probably are using more by-products and less quality protein sources. I definitely would ask your veterinarian for recommendations as to the type of foods they endorse (though beware also, they may have special deals with certain pet food companies and therefore not give you an unbiased view). Feeding dry foods also may help with your pet’s dental needs by cleaning off some of the plaque buildup.
If you’ve ever had such a bad cold that it totally clogged your nose and sinuses and made your favorite curry dinner taste like cardboard, you know that losing your sense of smell and taste can put a real damper on your appetite. The same seems to be true of cats.
If your cat is ill and stops eating, it could suffer serious repercussions from even a mini-hunger strike. Cats that quit eating for several days can become weak and dehydrated, and prolonged fasting can lead to a condition called hepatic lipidosis, a dangerous accumulation of fat in the liver. Therefore, if your pet has not eaten for several days, see your veterinarian immediately.
To assist your sick cat in eating and, after consulting with your veterinarian, you may attempt the following:
Feed a very smelly food, such as sardines, tuna, or liver.
Heat up the food slightly. This will increase the aroma.
Hand feed your cat.
If it still is not eating, seek veterinary attention immediately.
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