Hypocalcaemia in Dogs

Hypocalcemia is a condition in which the calcium level is too low in the bloodstream. It is also sometimes called “Eclampsia” or “Milk Fever.”

It can occur in any dog or cat but is most commonly seen in small breed dogs that are either pregnant or nursing a litter. The problem is caused by the increased demands of pregnancy or nursing a litter, which require high levels of calcium. As the puppies grow inside the mother, the mother’s body must supply calcium through her bloodstream for the bone growth of the puppies. After birth, the calcium is supplied through the milk for the puppies’ nutrition. As each day passes, and the puppies grow, more milk (and therefore more calcium) is required.

If the female has a large litter, it increases the demands for milk production and calcium for the puppies. This condition occurs when the calcium level of the blood is decreased below the minimum levels needed for the health of the female.

Early signs of this condition include nervousness, panting, shivering and muscle tremors. If not treated at this early stage, the condition progresses to seizures — and eventually death. Prompt treatment of this condition is required to prevent death.

Hypocalcemia often recurs in later pregnancies, often on subsequent times much quicker than the first time. If a bitch has had it before and is therefore of known susceptibility to it, then it may occur in late pregnancy, before the birth of the puppies has occurred. IT IS IMPORTANT TO SPAY THESE PETS AFTER THE FIRST EPISODE FOR THE WELL BEING OF YOUR PET!

Initial treatment of this condition requires IV Calcium to replace what is needed by the female. Follow-up doses of calcium and other drugs are often required.

Please follow the below instructions:

Give all medications as directed.

Feed HIGH QUALITY PUPPY FOOD to the bitch (this is higher in calcium than normal adult dog food).

Allow only LIMITED FEEDINGS (3-4 times each day). Supplement the puppies with an artificial milk replacement product. Remember that as the puppies grow, they will require more milk. If the female is allowed to nurse too much, the chances of the condition recurring increase greatly.

Spay the female as SOON as the puppies are weaned.

Notify your veterinarian if any of the following signs are observed:

Staggering, muscle tremors, excessive panting, or seizures

Refusal to eat or vomiting

Breasts become hard, painful, or swollen

Any other condition you feel is abnormal for your pet

This article has been kindly donated by the Claws and Paws Veterinary Hospital. For further information about this clinic visit http://www.cpvh.com

An Introduction to Clicker Training

A clicker is a small plastic device which emits a loud clicking sound when the metal tongue inside it is pressed. It is used as part of the process of training dogs (or cats) and treating their behaviour problems.



Before using the clicker as part of training it must be introduced so that the animal understands what the noise means. The animal is trained to associate the sound of the click with being given a reward (usually food). This uses the same principle of conditioning that Pavlov used to train dogs to salivate when they heard a bell.Once this association has been made the click can be used to indicate to the dog the exact bit of behaviour that we want them to do again.


How is this different from traditional methods?


Dogs and cats are best at understanding reward when it comes within just two seconds of their doing something. Beyond this time and learning is poor or non-existent. The clicker can be used to indicate precisely what is being rewarded, but the reward does not need to be given immediately after the click. There can be a delay of up to a few seconds.


This enables us to train at a distance and to choose a very precise moment to reward.
Clicker training does not depend upon the animal learning a command word before it learns the action. Clicker training can be used to teach quite complicated behaviour that would otherwise be very difficult to achieve.


How to start


Some dogs or cats find the noise of the clicker too loud and alarming so the first step is to introduce it quietly.


• Get a pot containing some small pieces of your pet’s favourite food treats and get the clicker.


• Muffle the clicker at first by sitting on the hand that is holding the clicker. Make a click and watch your pet’s reaction. If he or she looks interested but relaxed, then give a food reward.


• If your pet looks frightened or wants to get away, then you should contact the person who is supervising the treatment of your pet’s problem to ask for extra help.
If your pet was happy with the first click then give several more clicks, each followed by a food reward. Try, if possible, not to reach for the food or hold any in your hand until after you have made the click.


Next take your hand out from under your leg and give 20 or so more clicks, each followed by a food reward. Again, if at any time your dog looks unsettled or fearful, then stop and contact your veterinary surgeon or behaviourist. After this introduction your dog or cat should look pleased or excited whenever he or she hears a click.


You are now ready to start training with the clicker, but remember the rules:


• Never give a click without giving a reward.


• Never use the sound of the clicker to get your pet’s attention; you only give a click after he or she has responded to a command.


• Try to avoid handling food until you have given the click. Training works less well if you are fiddling with food all the time because your pet won’t concentrate on what he or she is doing when the next click happens.


The basic method for teaching commands using clicker training is to lure the dog or cat into performing an action, or allow it to happen naturally, and then to selectively click and reward the behaviour that you want to train to a command. Once your pet is doing exactly what you want, you can then give that behaviour a ‘name’ so that your dog or cat knows that this is what you want him to do when he hears that command.


Here is an example for training a “sit” command:


• Sit down with a pot of your pet’s favourite food treats on your lap, along with a clicker.


• Stay still and wait for your dog to sit down.


• Ignore or fend off all behaviour other than sitting.


• When your pet sits down you should click as soon as his backside hits the floor and then give him a food treat.


• If your pet stays sitting then give another click and food treat, otherwise wait until he sits down again.


You should find that the amount of time your pet spends sitting down increases dramatically over the course of the first 10 minutes or so, and that he stops doing all of the other things he was trying in order to get the food from you, such as jumping up or whimpering or running around.


When you know that your pet is sitting down again very reliably and quickly after collecting each treat then you can start to introduce the word ‘sit’:


• As your pet begins to sit down spontaneously say ‘your-pet’s-name, sit’ and then wait. As soon as he sits down give a click and food reward.


• Repeat this 20-30 times and your pet will have made the initial association between the command word ‘sit’ and what he should do to get the food.


You should now practice getting your pet to sit in a number of other situations, giving clicks and rewards for an obedient response.



Bio: Televets is an online pet Q&A service connecting pet owners worldwide with certified pet advisors. Visit us today at http://www.televets.com/ to ask your question!

Exercising your Dog

For most people, exercising a dog consists of a trip to the park for a run around. In some cases this might suffice, but responsible owners should be aware of the quantity and quality of exercise that their dog needs to maintain optimum health. Ask yourself the following questions.

1) How often does your dog get exercised?

It does not take a genius to work out that you put on weight if you do not burn off the calories that you ingest. Exercise is extremely important to the health and well being of your dog. Fit dogs are happier, more active, more mobile and less susceptible to health problems such as arthritis, ligament ruptures and heart disease. With such huge individual variation between breeds and ages, we cannot recommend a set amount of exercise that each dog should have, but all dogs require at least one walk a day, with the more athletic ones requiring two.

2) What type of exercise does your dog do?

Whilst a walk or two a day may be perfectly adequate exercise for your dog, there is huge benefit to be had from mixing it up a bit and trying out new activities. Adding variety to a dogs exercise routine provides extra physical and mental challenges that can be both interesting and rewarding for both dog and owner. If your dog has any medical conditions (e.g. heart problem, arthritis) you must consult a veterinary professional before adding any unfamiliar exercises. Here we look at various types of exercise possible.

- Walking & Hiking

The most common form of exercise for dogs. Always have your dog on a lead unless you are in a park or rural area without traffic. Beware the potential existence of other dogs in public places that may be irresponsibly raised and show aggression to your pooch.

- Jogging

Getting your dog to run alongside you and adjust to fluctuations in your speed will require a little training, but if you are a keen jogger it is a great way of exercising your dog. Make sure you choose a pace that is comfortable for your dog, and only attempt jogging if you and your dog are able to walk briskly for 30 minutes without tiring.

- Cycling

This is fantastic if you have access to the countryside where your dog can run safely off the lead. Also great for athletic dogs that need to run greater distances than you do to achieve a proper workout. If you wish to cycle with your dog in urban areas, he or she must have impeccable lead manners and ideally respond to commands such as left and right. Cycling early in the morning when there is less traffic is wise, and avoid busy roads.

- Inline skating

Skating, like cycling, means athletic dogs often get the chance to run to their hearts content. However, since you cannot go on grass and are concrete bound, it is only really suitable with a dog in a park, where you do not have the worry of traffic. Your dog should be taught commands such as slow and stop, and only let off the lead if he or she is ultra obedient. Using a harness rather than a lead affords greater control in this exercise.

- Jump & fetch

Getting your dog to jump and fetch a ball can provide hours of entertainment and is excellent exercise. Make sure the ball is not small enough to be accidentally swallowed. Also synthetic toys such as balls are far safer than sticks, which can fragment in the dogs mouth and get stuck in their throat.

- Frisbee

Playing frisbee is great fun for some dogs, but you need to have a large garden or a park nearby where your dog can run freely off the lead. This is great for the lazy person as you are pretty much stationary while your dog has a full workout. Clearly not all dogs are willing or able to catch the frisbee, so only those breeds that pick up the knack are suitable. Playing frisbee should be avoided in dogs with teeth or mouth problems, and also in dogs with joint problems and those susceptible to cruciate ligament damage.

- Circuit & agility

Those familiar with obedience competitions will be well aware of the fun and satisfaction to be had doing this activity. You and your dog run around a series of obstacles, aiming to pass through each without a problem. Courses often consist of bar jumps (hurdles of varying heights according to the breed), a tunnel (usually about 3 feet long), a ramp and a slalom (5 or more bars in a row). The key when starting out is to reward your dog enthusiastically for doing each obstacle with treats. You should lead him through the obstacle course, teaching him to respond to instructions such as Up!, and body language, for example the outstretched palm of your hand meaning Stop!

- Swimming

Swimming is one of the best exercises there is for both you and your dog, as you are using every muscle in the body. If you are lucky enough to have somewhere where you and your dog are both permitted to swim, and is also safe, then this is a highly beneficial activity. If you are swimming in the sea, make sure a lifeguard is around just in case, and be aware that cold water and current both increase the effort required as more calories are burned. Swimming is particularly beneficial for dogs with arthritis and other joint problems as it builds muscular strength without placing strain on the joints.

- Football

Start the game by kicking the ball slowly along the ground towards your dog, and encourage him to get it. Because the ball is too large to pick up in his or her mouth, it will take him or her some time to realize that it must be pushed with either the nose or the paws. Give praise and encouragement as he or she gets the hang of it. Small breeds can be offered a smaller rubber ball rather than a football. Make sure the ball is not small enough to be swallowed though.

Author Bio: Matthew Homfray is one of the online vets at free pet Q&A service Televets. Visit http://www.televets.com to ask your pet question today!